Tag Archives: Liz Vogt

The Perpetual Profundity

I finally went to Dover. It’s one of those places that I felt like I HAD to go because it is literally a 30 minute train ride, and costs almost nothing to get to. Unfortunately, I have over-romanticized Dover to the point of parody. My concept of the place is based entirely on “We Both Go Down Together” by The Decemberists. It is not a very romantic song, well I suppose it is tragically romantic. But I always imagined Dover to be nothing but rugged white chalk cliffs and the open sea. A place that some baroque Victorian novelist would choose to use as the point of climax in a burgeoning romance. But it is none of these things. It is the least romantic place I have been since arriving in England. I should have known. Dover is a port town, which means that it is dominated by movement, the transportation of people and things. The port is brimming with pollutant pumping semis and disembodied announcements that caress the edges of the cliff so that the vibrant green and white and blue that I imagined is so invaded that I feel like I am trespassing on government land instead of taking a nice stroll by the seaside. It was beautiful, don’t get me wrong. But it was beautiful in the way that airports are beautiful, transient, alien, and non-human.

Cliffs and SkyThe portI went with my friend Liz Vogt, which was nice because we both ran out of breath walking up to the cliffs, and therefore were spared the shame of being out of shape. It was a really beautiful day, wonderful hiking weather, cool and sunny. It would have been nice to have a picnic on the cliffs, but I also would have dreaded carrying any kind of extra weight up the incredible incline. We were hungry when we came down and walked through Dover high street in search of some curry. But nothing was open. It was 4pm. And nothing nothing nothing was open except some greasy Fish n’ Chips places and a couple Kebab shops. By this time the sun had disappeared and early English dusk was setting in. It was cold and we had no idea where the train station was. So we gave up, after walking the entire (quite long) high street with hysterical results. We finally found the train station after getting some jumbled thick German directions ‘left petrol station, right school…” On the train we were still miserable. So we used our 21st century saavy and called Dan. In student housing, we get a literal PILE of take out menus, so he picked up one for Masal Gate (an Indian place in Canterbury) and gave me the number. After some train tunnel signal interruption, I finally got the order in and confirmed for 6pm. We were still on the train, got to Canterbury then had to catch a bus. We got back to my place (where I had ordered the food to be sent) at about 6:05. The restaurant was supposed to call me, but totally didn’t. As we were walking up we saw a shady car parked in the lot, but kind of ignored it and went inside because we were quite cold. The moment we walked in, Cody asked if we had ordered food. We’re like “yeah!” and he says, “Well I told the guy that no one did because I didn’t know, and he already left.” To which I replied with expletives as Liz and I ran wildly outside to flag down the shady car that could be none other than the Masala Gate delivery Guy. I literally jumped in front of the car. I was way to hungry to let this one pass me by. Liz ran the flank, and we surrounded the car in time to get the goods. And what goods they were. We stuffed ourselves with sweet curry and Nan, until we could hardly move. Liz had to go to choir after that, I just chilled. Haha.

Today, we had our usual film meeting at Bramley’s, a chance for us to wax poetic about what we all love most, the cinema. It was nice tonight because it was a small group, just seven of us. Sometimes it goes double and that can be quite daunting for intense conversation/ debate about film. The night pretty much ended with Cody and I talking about the film Wendy and Lucy which is currently my favorite film. Since it has now been turned into a one person conversation (me relating the exchange on my own blog) I won’t pretend that I can sum up what Cody was talking about. But it got down to a debate about the lack of fantastic elements in the film (by fantastic I mean illusions, special effects, futuristic projections, breaking the time space continuum). I would categorize the film as realist, or humanist. It is quiet, slow-paced, concerned with ‘the everyday’ experience, and has no succinct ending. It sounds like the viewer’s worst nightmare, some artsy film taking itself too seriously. But it is the complete opposite of artsy, it is bare bones filmmaking (director Kelly Reichardt has a crew of volunteers and edits the films in her New York apartment). Cody and I also argued about that, he citing Primer as a ‘better’ result of low-budget filmmaking. But this is less about Cody’s want to show me ‘another perspective’ for consideration, and more about my own experience with the film. Cody and I have very different relationships with reality and differing taste in films (his favorite is 2001: A Space Odyssey, my previous favorite was Drop Dead Fred). So I would never condemn him for having a different opinion, or anyone for that matter. The conversation didn’t really seem to be about the movie, it was more about what cinema should represent. I think that is a question that will never be satisfied, and one that seems unproductive. Cinema is as varied as any other art form, so it seems to me that, like art, it should be approached with respect to the intention of the film. I believe the intention of Wendy and Lucy is to portray a young independent woman trying to make something of herself in modern America, without an education and with little money. Wendy is traveling to Alaska with her dog Lucy, trying to find work in the Alaskan canneries. The American dream is dispelled when she experiences a serious of semi-self-inflicted hardships, her car breaks down when she has been warned that it is on it’s last leg, she is arrested for shoplifting, and when she is jailed she loses Lucy. She spends most of the film looking for Lucy and talking to this old security guard at Walgreen’s, who lets her use his cellphone to call the pound. When Lucy is gone, Wendy is completely alone. She is in a strange place and no one back home can help her out financially or mentally. She counts every cent, even picking up loose change in her car seats, and trying to turn in aluminum cans for some extra cash. Maybe it was the aesthetic, Wendy has crudely cut dark brown hair, an ill-fitting blue hoodie and cut-off shorts. She finds solace in diners and gas station bathrooms. Maybe I could identify with the main character. But thank God for that. I have never found myself able to ACTUALLY identify with a main character, except for a few occasions – Ghost World and the animated series Daria. Even those were a little too dark and monotone for my taste. Wendy, though, is an idealist who is just trying to survive in the only way she knows, by doing everything the wrong way. It is rare to see a female protagonist with any kind of ideals, let alone ideals that are so fiercely independent.
So maybe that’s why Wendy and Lucy is now on the top of my favorite movies list. Or at least that’s what Cody and I’s conversation would want me to believe. In reality, the film was a beautiful portrait of solitude and disconnect between people and people, as well as people and nature. It is the exploration of personal disaster in a culture that promotes individualistic success, a success that I imagine is quite foreign to the wayward Wendy. It denies the myths of financial independence that have been pumped into our mainstream media for decades. This is a woman who is living by the very cash in her hand, not the credit on her card. She has no debt, but also seems to have no future. There is no happy or tragic ending, there is only constant motion, which may be realist (a supposedly ‘unproductive’ approach to cinema), but at least it’s Real.
Mostly.

Isn’t it nice living out in the Country?

As you may or may not know, Canterbury is an agrarian center just 7 miles from the coastal city of Whitstable. In fact, one can hike down there on the Whitstable bike path, which makes for quite the tour of Southwest England’s flora and fauna. I’ve walked this path a few times, but never the entire 7 miles to the coast. I am just a little too dedicated to public transportation, but someday… someday I will make the journey and maybe even stop for a little picnic on the way. Until that day– I am content to make my way around the quaint Canterbury by UniBus and the occasional stroll. 

While the countryside is the ideological expression of my greatest affections for the land and expansive horizon– I must admit, that sometimes, it’s nice living out in the City.

This past weekend, I visited my good friend and former housemate, Rachel Weidner, at her dorm in Chelsea, London. I went with a couple friends from campus, Cody, Nile, Cecily, and Liz. We were all feeling a little too intoxicated by the country air and traversed to the metro in search of a little more grit to our porridge. 

Whenever I enter a big city– whether by coach, train, or car– I get a sudden rush of endorphins. It is as if I could suddenly feel the buzz of human brains, the beating of millions of hearts and the mumbly chatter of distant conversations. When I am in the city, I no longer feel the throat clenching solitude that is a country night. I no longer feel that I may look over my shoulder to find no soul behind me. I am suddenly second string in a never ending orchestral performance. My footsteps are inevitably in time. 

Upon arrival, we duck into a convenience store to pick up some drinks and a snack. At Victoria we find the Underground and take it to Scott’s Cottage. The gang is staying at Palmer’s hostel — restored Victorian with wooden lockers under the bunks– so we head there to drop off a load. Nile Cody and I took the coach while Liz and Cecily took the train, so we meet them in the lobby and they book up their rooms. Luckily, I don’t have to throw down the 20 pounds because Rachel’s roommate never moved into the dorm leaving a perfectly good twin bed for me to rest so sweetly upon.

We congregate outside to formulate some plans. Liz and I sit down on a bench and start looking up at the clouds with the other three compare notes on places to go and underground lines to take. Liz and I exchange indecisiveness and wait for direction. To the National Portrait Gallery! They say, and so we line up and down to the underground tube to tube to get around. 

We emerge at Tralfagar Square– first time for me. Stunning projection into the sky with sweet old Nelson perched perfectly atop the mast of England. We throw pence into the fountain like so many scenes of movies I’ve never understood. I wished I knew more about God, which I tell everyone, they keep theirs secret in hopes that they may be granted– I’ve personally given up hope on that little puddle. Up the stairs we go to the National Gallery, but as I step up, a suicidal pigeon dives toward my moving feet missing the pavement by a shoe and crash landing into my ankle instead. I scream- Liz got hit too, we scamper up the rest of the stairs and laugh that our previous joke kicks came true. 

In the National Gallery we see hundreds and hundreds of priceless paintings, Klimpt, Monet, Manet, Michelangelo, Van Gough, Goya and Da Vinci. To stand face to face with the fuel of in-numerous theories and debates about the state of man and creativity. To be nose to nose. Oh and the Execution Of Jane Eyre. Oh. Oh. To see what men did to preserve the absolute physiology of their subjects, and then to see three rooms later, the distortions that so logically followed.

Stendhal’s syndrome kicks in. I can’t even look at the paintings individually anymore, I walk by wall after wall trying to absorb a piece of every cake I can swallow. But I am dizzied with the sugar, and like a diabetic, I call out for nourishment. “I’m hungry. Anyone want something to eat?” We have all been passing this idea back and forth between masterpieces, it finally catches flame and we walk out into the bright white light of Tralfagar Square. We find Pretz- a kind of pre-prepared sandwich and soup shop. Savory Thai Chicken stew with little pieces of coconut floating. We eat and are full and warm and ready for another go at greatness.

Just up the street from the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery. I just keep thinking ‘ These aren’t photographs, they really aren’t Sagan.’ But I can’t believe myself so I stick my face closer and closer until I can see the tiny give away brush strokes. I hold my hand to my chest. If I were any older or ill of heart- I would be down in a second. I am amazed floor after floor. 

We jet out after drooling over Annie Leibovitz’s book- a collection of her works. Out into the open air and we decide to head to Chelsea, they’re off to the Science Museum, and (finally) I am off to meet Rachel. I haven’t seen her since I arrived about a month ago, and the effects of jet lag and preoccupation made our previous encounter less than satisfying.

She gives me text directions and we meet on a corner with a run and spinner. She is wearing a baggy black hoodie over a white skirt with primary color squares erratically placed. ‘Oh Rachel, where did you get that skirt?’ She bewilders me. She found this jacket on the side of the road with a huge Scooby Doo zipper pull, it is at least four sizes too large, but somehow– she pulls it off. We walk excitedly back to her dorm. I’m happy to be in comfortable company. Company that has seen me at every degree of health, wealth and disaster. We have fought and loved and screamed and got each other out of the country, making promises for tomorrow and the next day over and over. 

We hang out for awhile and just chat it up, we have a lot to catch up on. Later we go out to Brick Lane, which seems to be a pretty hipster hang out. A nice little club for free and some friends met and left and met again. Ride the bus home late. Wake up about 11 and walk to groceries and then to the tube in an attempt to hang out with my group. My phone dies- due to some heated text message battle on the way into London- and Rachel doesn’t know/ have anyone’s number. So we just turn around and go home. Talking about communes in Seattle and radio shows when we get back into Bloomington. Living like Gertrude Stein and Ernest Hemingway- we say. Wish I’d lived in those days. Spend the rest of the day chatting and running small errands, lifted from here to there. Love love love that Rachel

Ride the coach back to Canterbury, sleeping then Subway where a drunk starts a fight and we catch the last bus home. I sleep and sleep and sleeeep.

Humans are Mostly musical.